Suzanne's Blog

Sort of like 4th of July, but serious about it! Even the grocery stores are closed (personally I love it, believe there should be days where are retailers, except essentials, should closed – do people really need to shop every day??).

Drizzly again and tired od m useums, decided to go somewhere to hike. Drove to Peggy’ s Cove near St Margaret Bay, quaint little fishing village, went for hike to high granite rocks overlooking a scenic, very rough cove, and ate. We found a place that sells seafood and will also boil your lobster, no sides except butter. It was so fresh and yummy, finger lickin’ good!

Returned to hotel to pack and the sun came out! Well, will make for better fireworks viewing. 

It’s been a great trip, very memorable; have met very nice people, seen amazing sights, and learned a lot about Canada.

Nah, we did not get tattoos! We went and saw the Royal Nova Scotia Tattoo performance. First though, first thing today we went to the Citadel. It was one of the most interesting and impressive military displays we have seen. we decided to not do the guided tour but walked the many rooms on our own, in each was a person dressed in 1840 ish military attire and they would explain what the room represented and their roles, clothing, anything; as if theywere an 1840’s person answering. It was slightly drizzling all morning but at one point the skies opened up. We saw classrooms with slates and ink pens, sleeping quarters and prison. 

Left citadel to grab quick lunch and then on to Tattoo, which included 1500 performers. It was sort of like River Dance meets military marching band competition meets circus. Amazingly good. They honored Shady Hook, Veterans from around the world and the Queen. (We have been continually surprised by how much Queen Elizabeth is integrated into Canadian politics and life.

After performance, weather was mostly dry so we walked around cemetery from 1800’s and the wharf area. Tomorrow is our last full day and planning on Maritime museum, not sure what else – weather dependent.

We started the day on PEI, Charlottetown and ended in Halifax,Nova Scotia. After breakfast we drove towards the Confederation Bridge and decided to take detour to see a little more of the island. Made stop at astonishing beach with RED sand! Walked the beach and tide pools, just beautiful. Jan found a few shells to take home and we found souvenier rock and some beach glass, gorgeous, green glass that the ocean has smooth the edges.

Drove around some more and were very impressed by very well maintained properties and quaint farm houses. Fields on PEI are either red red from clay or green green from rain. Wildflowers galore. Something else on PEI, the red lights are square shaped, yellow is triangular, and green round.

Headed back towards bridge but had to stop at Subway and pick up Lobster sandwich. Crossed bridge after paying $44.50 (yikes) and headed to Truro, known for the tides and bore ( high, often dangerous wave caused by the surge of a flood tide upstream in a narrowing estuary or by colliding tidal currents). By now it was drizzling and periodically raining again. Found hotel in Halifax which located on Chocolate Lake. Cocoa, the official greeter at the hotel, said hi (she’s a chocolate lab!!) Got settled in and went to town where we walked along wharf and found the brewery. Also, did stop at tourist office and found out there is Tattoo performance (Scottish dancing and music – Joe and I had wanted to see when we were in Scotland but timing off) got tickets for tomorrow.

Forgot to mention that Jan saw a moose during our last train ride!!!

Morning started off with great breakfast but weather looked ominous so did not take bikes with us. I was really disappointed. So we decided to drive to the north shore to see the beach, nothing special. And while it wasn’t raining yet and the bike path looked great – paved, away from road, and mostly flat; I was really glad we decided not to bike when I nearly got blown over getting out of car to walk to beach. Lots of red sand but no shells, long long beach.

Drove around and saw a fox, lots of colorful wild flowers and many similar looking house styles. By now it was also raining a lot so heading back to B&B and picniced at the breakfast table! Read and napped a little then went to see “Now You See Me” which I highly recommend. Dinner and ice cream at DQ.

Tomorrow off to Halifax via Amherst and Fundy Bay. LAST city of our Canadian adventure.

Picture from previous blog description in phone booth!

No pictures of our dining experience but have to talk about dinner last night (vegetarian friends ignore our dinner description!). As soon as we drove across the 12 km bridge to PEI (Prince Edward Island) we saw signs for fresh lobster, at restaurants, at fast food place (yes, even at Subway), fish markets, grocery stores. Getting to our B& B, which is along a bike path that circles the island and we won’t be riding due to drizzle wimps (Jan & Joe are whining!!!!), we asked about good places to eat lobster. Headed for town, driving through strip mall & suburban sprawl, finally getting to the 10 blocks of wonderful, scenic, quaint old town and wharf area. Stopped at recommended restaurant on the wharf; they had outrageous prices – the smallest lobster dinner was for two (4 – 1 lbs lobsters, mussels, sides for $119) with way too much food. Found smaller pub in town where we could get appetizer of mussels (still was 1.5 lbs) and one and half pound lobster with sides for $28.99. Joe and I shared mussels and lobster, plus he had seafood chowder and beers. Jan had her own lobster to herself!

Did I mention the taxes? We now know why Canadians have great healthcare, taxes on taxes on everything. We were so full from dinner we couldn’t even eat local, world famous “Cow Ice Cream”.

Breakfast was freshly made waffles with home drawn maple syrup, fresh strawberry and rhubarb compote, fresh fruit and optional yoghurt. Now we are going to roll into rental car and drive to northern area of middle PEI area. If you look at map, PEI is 3 ‘bulbs’ stuck together, we’re staying in the middle.

Our railway station experience in Quebec was once again exceptional. The rail agent was such a happy person, he showed us his gold necklace which had a smiley face engraved on it, and told us about his smiley tattoo!! He recommended a restaurant in the train station which was very good; hip, modern, and elegant and obviously frequented by locals. Has special appetizers for Wednesday which turned out to be large enough portions for us to make a dinner. Had coconut encrusted shrimp with dijon curry sauce, warm goat cheese, pear, and arugala salad and chow mein (no noodles just crisp, freshly prepared vegetables). Unfortunately, this train ride is a bit different than “The Canadian” (train from Vancouver to Montreal). Newer cars which are very clean but much smaller compartments, beds narrower and hallways skinny. Plus, biggest disappointment was breakfast – not gourmet like the other train where everything was cooked on real stove versus microwave, sent back microwaved omelette and got oatmeal. Glad we’re only going to Moncton and then renting car. New doesn’t always mean better 😦 One really nice thing, they have the same lounge car at the end of the train which was built in 1952. Will include picture. 

Ok, we weren’t totally worthless today, did about 20 min of weights and sit-ups this morning. Otherwise, we packed the bikes with very little swearing, ate a few times so far, reading and watching Netflix in the hotel lobby. Also wimped out and ordered taxi since it’s raining cats and dogs. Jan and I are big fans of “The Big  C”, highly recommend, it’s laugh outloud funny – thankfully we have good enough internet connection to watch Netflix today.

After a wild night of thunderstorms, we jumped on our bikes yesterday to head east on the Route Verte 5. These green route paths offer over 3000 km of paved bike paths! No cars!!

Another city, Quebec, that we love. Great bike and walking paths. And on Monday which was National Holiday we saw how people take advantage of these paths. My theory is cities with these areas, like Ottawa and Quebec, have people who get outside more and that makes for happier people. In both these cities we’ve met wonderfully helpful and friendly people.

Back to yesterday’s outing. We set out to go see the Falls of Montmonency which was supposed to be approximately 16 km from hotel, past Old Town. So we headed out and after biking 12 miles we hit a deadend for the bike path. We missed a turn, but did get to ride along the Charles River, which was very scenic. It turned out to be a pretty humid and hot day. So by the time we got to the Falls we were hot and sweaty. These Falls are higher than Niagara but not as wide, still a pretty sight. 

Ate our picnic lunch, including a Leffe for Joe. I’ll admit to swiping a few sips, and off we rode home. BUT by now there was a nasty headwind. After 32 miles we finally made it back to the hotel, salt encrusted and ready for the pool. Boy, did that feel good. 

The plan was then to take bus downtown, have dinner and then get in line to see free Cirq du Soleil (twice a week they have 45 min free show). All went as planned until halfway through dinner it turned really cold and windy. Really cold, winter parka cold. Umbrella blow away windy, too. So we headed to Cirq tent after wonderful Italian dinner and saw many people heading our way, show was cancelled due to high winds. Back to the bus stop with wind whipping around us. BTW we refer to ourselves now as the ‘yellow people’ since we each have the same yellow biking jackets. Next to the bus stop was a rarety, a phone booth! So the yellow people squished into the booth to try to stay warm. People and especially kids were very amused when they saw us. 

Again, we had excellent timing. Back in the hotel roomwith glasses of wine/beer in hand, the skies opened up to wild, windy downpour. The wind has continued all night so we’re having a quiet day hanging at hotel. Agenda of reading, consuming vast amounts of tea, eating, pack up bikes and head to town via bus early evening for 8 pm overnight trainto Moncton. Am sad, this is our last train ride. In Moncton will rent car to drive to PEI (Prince Edward Island) then on to Halifax. Not sure if we will have internet on PEI.